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I found with joy that the south Indian seasoning podi – a rough grind of searingly hot, roughly ground spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves two people

Four hundred grams starchy potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, cubed into two-centimeter cubes
One teaspoon coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
Two garlic pieces, prepared and minced
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
Forty milliliters flavorless oil
1 red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then remove the water and let them dry from steam for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for 5 minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then crush or grind to a chunky blend.

Tip into a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then place on a tray and reserve for later – optionally, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Beat all the ingredients for the dressing in a medium bowl. Heat the grill to its maximum heat, then grill the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the heat of your broiler, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, scattered with a little more salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.