Don't Throw Away Seafood Eggs: Transform Them To a Premium Spread – Recipe
Beyond its stunning beaches and dramatic coastline, Jersey boasts a extraordinary culinary tradition, firmly grounded in its soil and ocean. From world-famous local new potatoes to shellfish sweeter and softer than any found anywhere else, Jersey's harvest is unsurpassed. What excites many above all, however, is the way island producers and growers are adopting regenerative agriculture, and in doing so reimagining the island's food future with innovation and dedication.
A few weeks ago, I was fortunate to host a talk at an inspiring event, and prepare a welcome meal for all speakers, together with an motivating organizer. Of course, scallops were a must on the spread, because they're the island at their finest: subtle, juicy and singing of the sea.
Scallops seem to me the ultimate embodiment of Jersey's culinary evolution: succulent, full and restorative by design, filtering and cleaning the sea while helping to build coastal ecosystems. Both farmed and, importantly, hand-harvested, they're one of the eco-friendliest seafood options we can eat. However many, who were raised on the island, don't eat their eggs – a common affliction, I fear. Even more reason to celebrate those rosy tidbits, that are far too delicious to throw out. Whipped into a spread, they become sheer indulgence: melt over scallops, stir into rice dishes or simply spread on toasted bread.
They may be a bit pricey, though, so I have devised the following recipe to turn just one shellfish into an impressive appetizer (or a few into a satiating entree) and, by blending their roe into smoked spice butter and roasting them in the half-shells with small tomatoes and crushed garlic, unused parts turns into a delicacy.
That same ethos of reinvention is central to this approach, that has launched a prize providing support to food pioneers with brand support, guidance and access to a marketplace. Judged by some of esteemed food heroes, the prize will be presented at an upcoming event. It's about supporting concepts that can assist our agricultural networks flourish, from soil to sea, and I can't think of a more exciting place for this dialogue to begin than Jersey.
Scallops Roasted in Egg Spread with Small Tomatoes and Crushed Garlic
Serves six as a starter or 2 as a main
6 with eggs shellfish in the shell
Eighteen small tomatoes, halved
6 garlic cloves, crushed
3 fresh chili peppers (such as jalapeno), split lengthways, or 1 pinch red pepper flakes, or to taste (optional)
50g unsalted butter
1 tsp paprika
Salt and pepper, to taste
Lemon wedges, to accompany
Some samphire, agretti or six tiny pickle slices, to decorate (optional)
Prepare the scallops, detaching the roe from each and leaving the rest of the scallop attached to the half-shell (request your seafood supplier to handle this for you, if necessary). Place 6 halved tomatoes in each half-shell with a clove's worth of smashed garlic cloves and one half a red chilli, if using.
Put the scallop roes in the jug of a hand blender (I find it's the best tool for blending small amounts), add the butter and spice, and blend until creamy. Divide the butter among the half-shells, making sure every scallop is well coated in the butter.
Preheat the grill until it is very hot, then put the shellfish under the heat for 6-8 minutes, until blistered and bubbling. Present immediately, topped with if desired sea vegetables, agretti, a piece of pickle and/or a splash of the pickle juice or some lemon.